#REPLACEMENT FOR PLASTER AND LATHE WALLS HOW TO#
#REPLACEMENT FOR PLASTER AND LATHE WALLS PATCH#

Try these simple and time tested tricks to find studs in a plaster wall the next time you need to hang something in your old house.

#REPLACEMENT FOR PLASTER AND LATHE WALLS HOW TO#

Most smaller items can be hung pretty securely anywhere on the wall by screwing into the wood lath, but for heavy things that weight more than 10-15 lbs, like large mirrors and TVs, you’ll need to learn how to find studs in a plaster wall.ĭon’t waste your money on that stud finder. It might take a few blades but they are cheap.If you own an old house with plaster and lath walls, you may have discovered how utterly useless a stud finder can be. It's the combination of metal reinforcing and gypsum lath and plaster that complicates this cut. They will probably do a good job on the outlets. They make abrasive blades for jig saws and sawsalls. I suppose the bits are carbide of some kind. it will jar the rest of the wall or ceiling less.Ī RotoZip tool with a plaster cutting bit will do the best job on the outlets. Screw the nailer to the joist or stud rather than nailing it. You are right about cutting the lath and plaster flush to the joist or stud and adding a nailer.

#REPLACEMENT FOR PLASTER AND LATHE WALLS PATCH#

It easier to fill the drywall to make a flat patch than to feather our onto the painted plaster. Leave the drywall just a little bit shy of flush. I can actually do it with plaster faster than I can with drywall and it fits perfectly when finished but that's just me. If you are dead set on doing it yourself this is probably more amateur friendly than plaster. Yes you can replace the material in the opening with sheetrock. Maybe I should invest in a more appropriate tool? Thanks for any and all help. Is there a blade specifically designed for my sawzall or jigsaw. Seems like that would produce the least trauma on the remaining plaster ceiling?įinally, what is the best tool to use to cut outlet holes, etc in the plaster/button board. Also, would it be best to cut away the button board flush with a ceiling joist and then scab in a 2X4 alongside the existing joist for a nailing surface. Can I carefully cut out the section and shim the joists and use modern sheetrock as a patch using tape and joint compound? I had to rehang the entire ceiling. And I don't know yet if it is over the entire surface or just in corners.Īnyway, I need to repair a couple of ceiling spots that are 2'X2' in size. The mesh I mentioned is not metal lath but 20 gauge 1' mesh.more like chicken wire.

I've been researching the button board & plaster ceilings/walls that are in my 1949 house and have new respect for the quality of the materials. You seem to think that somehow this is inferior to more modern (read cheaper, thinner, less soundproof, softer) drywall. Is the wire mesh everywhere or only in angles and above and below the corners of doors and windows? It's messy but to cut holes use an abrasive circular blade which will cut through the plaster, the lath and the mesh and leave a nice smooth edge.įor hanging pictures use a masonry bit to drill the hole and wall anchors just like for drywall unless you hit a stud. I don't know why you are troubled by the mesh. Or do you have metal lath? Which is mesh of about 3/8' X 1/2' and formed of expanded metal? Is the mesh woven wire of about 20 gauge with 1' mesh (rarely 17ga 1 1/2' mesh)? it is also called RockLath but that is a brand or button board because of the buttons formed when the plaster was pushed through the holes. The plaster is probably about 3/8' -1/2' thick. The lath is gypsum lath It is 3/8' thick and the sheets are 48' X 16'. it's too bad this kind of quality is not typical now adays. You are very fortunate to live in a superior house.

Replacement for plaster and lathe walls